After a long hot summer in the crazy hive of Kypseli’s streets, I decided to visit Greece’s second city Thessaloniki for the first time. After my initial accommodation was cancelled last minute, I got lucky in finding Guy’s apartment, which was excellently hosted by Guy.

Guy is one of those hosts who actually takes the trouble to write a well-informed guide for guests, but he’s also interested in how the city looks through a visitor’s eyes. 

The apartment is in Agia Triada so if you’re coming, bring some trainers or comfortable walking shoes to enjoy a gentle stroll along the promenade to take you into the city. Thessaloniki has developed this so beautifully that if you’re coming from Athens you may scratch your head and wonder what went wrong there. With the bay on one side and a view of Mount Olympus on clear days, this stretches along the water with a designated bike path that makes cycling a pleasure. There are bike hire places along the route. If you need something to fuel the walk there are lots of options, but Leone Bakery is an excellent example of a local Greek bakery. For anyone that can’t wait that long, Bougatsa Yiannis (not that one, the local one) does a nice cheese pie (tyropita) just a short walk from the apartment.  A nice route to the seafront from the apartment is to come via Pedion to add a little greenery, and the sound of Greek kids being told off by their Yaya, in the park on the way. Walking is the perfect way to get into the city, avoiding the traffic and public transport system which most Thessalonians will tell you is probably the biggest downside to life here. The metro is coming. So they say…

If it’s summer, or all year round if you’re Greek, have a freddo espresso or cappuccino as you reach the city. From sketo( plain/without) through ligi via ‘ pros το’ glyko to glyko(sweet). Note: in Greece sweet means you will want a toothbrush. After taking in art installation The Umbrellas and the statue of Alexander the Great on the way, the area around the White Tower has some great places to recharge on your way to or from Agia Triada. Cafe Palermo is cool, but not too cool, and you’ll probably be enjoying your coffee with friendly cats for company. Next to the theatre, Cafe Youkali was probably my favourite hang-out spot. Hard to describe but it’s a mix of 1920s art deco Paris and a splash of Asia Minor. It has a lovely relaxed atmosphere by day and is perfect for some people watching. In the same area, Hoppy Pub is a British style pub owned by a cool young Thessalonian couple, that serves Greek craft beers without any hipster posing. Order at the bar and if you’re on your own, hop up on a bar stool and get an inside take on the city from Giorgios and Katarina. A fantastic spot for lunch nearby is the traditional Ouzeri Lola, the portions are generous and while the food in Thessaloniki is typically excellent, this was one of my favourite places . Try the octopus and skordalia. Service is fast but friendly and you can blend in beside locals without any fuss. Like many of the better places in Thessaloniki, booking is recommended for the weekend. 

From there, it’s probably time to indulge yourself in the sweet treats Thessaloniki is known for. Elenidi is close to the main square and the queue outside worth enduring for the wonderful trigono (cream wrapped in filo, think baklava cream wafer) Walk and eat en route to the famous Aristotelous Square and soak up the atmosphere before swinging back around to the little Bougatsa Yiannis (not the local one or the larger branch of the famous one nearby)  for one of Greece’s most famous pastries. They’ll ask if you want cinnamon with it. Say yes.

If at that point it’s culture you’re hungry for, the Ataturk museum is nearby and the area between there and the university is packed with bohemian alternative bars if that’s your thing. 

For those with bravery and patience at this point, you might consider public transport back to Agia Triada to rest. Until it links to Google Maps, the best source for bus routes and times is OAS TH which has real-time bus locations thrown in. The number 10 is particularly useful and frequent for travelling around the city. 

No one should visit Thessaloniki without making the short, steep climb up to Anapoli. It means Upper Town and you’ll see that when you start walking. Don’t give up, it’s worth it! The views are spectacular and the island village feel of the corner at Akritas and Al.Papadopoulou is the Greece people have in their mind when they book their flight. Freddo espresso at the cafe then lunch at Ouzeri Tsinari is the perfect way to spend any afternoon but weekends capture the best of Greek living. Traditional food, family gatherings and the buzz of conversation. A little more up the hill Giasemi is a nice spot for a drink or a coffee and Taverna Sarantoulis is worth the effort if the Ouzeri is full. 

Depending on how much you eat, walk/roll back down the hill and head for the food market. There are two to choose from but in Modiano I had the worst food I ate in Thessaloniki and one of the worst meals I’ve ever had in Greece. Everyone can have an off night but how do you cook horta badly? I hope Tsir Tsir Meze up their game in future. Kapani is a much more authentic market anyway, worth a visit by day and in the back corner there are quite a few lovely little bar restaurants to choose from. On the way back, vaguely opposite Agia Triada is Toumba, upper and lower. It’s a vibrant area with lots of bars and restaurants to choose from and the local football stadium nestled among the streets.  For a budget traditional meal Mezedaki Bar is pretty decent and if you can get a table, Rakomelo is a buzzing place to hang out in for drinks and food.  If you’re staying longer and want to stock up on fresh fruit and vegetables, or just want to jump right in to the Greek experience, the Agia Triada laiki ( traditional market) is on Wednesday. It’s a great way to fast-forward into community life and about as far away from kebabs and Zorba dancing as you can get. 

If this guide was useful, consider donating a euro to the Pandora Project, which supports volunteers working with displayed people in Greece.

***Thank you very much Tiff for sharing your visit with us!